Electric Conversion Kits - What you need to know before you start the hunt.

Electric bicycle technology is growing and improving at a rapid rate. A state of the art e-bike component this year is probably not going to be the state of the art component for next year. That’s not to say e-bikes are subjected to “Moore’s Law” in the way that your PC is, but, if you’re picking up on your e-bike research where you left off a few years ago, you would be wise to update your findings. The following is a list of the words and terminology used throughout the e-bike industry. By familiarizing yourself with these words and terminology you’ll be better able to understand the information provided by the e-bike kit companies and you'll be able to ask the proper questions.

I broke the list down by listing some generic terms used to describe many of the individual components of the e-bike system first and then a list of those specific e-bike components. The terms Amps, volts, watts, and ohms are standard units of measure used in the specifications for any electrical device.

Amps, volts, watts, and ohms are the main units of measure used in measuring electricity.  Ohms is a measurement of resistance that is critical for measuring electricity, but it’s rarely used so I will leave it at that. Most e-bike kits will be advertised using volts & watts to explain their size as it compares to the competition, i.e. 36v 800w wheel motor kit. This number can be easily manipulated and as such is not very reliable. Some of the better quality kits will use volts, amps and watts i.e. a 36v 25A 900w wheel motor kit. This is better as it takes the capacity of the controller into consideration. Sadly these too can be fudged.  If you remember the formula volts x amperes = watts you will be able to accurately determine the real output of your motor based on the components and batteries you’ll be using.

TERMINOLOGY

MOTOR (Electric) = An electromechanical device that converts electrical energy into mechanical energy. It’s the part of your e-bike that, along with you does all the work. Hub Motor Geared = Smaller, lighter, and with more torque it also free wheels. The down side is they are often more expensive, more complicated & slower. They cannot be used for regenerative braking. Hub Motor Direct Drive = Simple, inexpensive, faster, well tested and reliable. They can weigh twice as much and have less torque than a geared motor. If mountain biking is your thing consider a geared hub or mid-mount chain drive. If you want regenerative braking then a direct drive hub motor is your only option. Brushless or Brushed = Brushless motors account for about 90% of today’s e-bike kits making the brushless or brushed question somewhat academic. See Electric Hub Motorsfor a complete explanation of the two or click this Wikipedia articlefor more information on brushless DC motors. Chain Drive = A transmission system in which power is transferred to the wheels by means of a chain. Usually found in e-bike applications where the motor mounts in the middle of the frame. Usually in the area of the pedals. Friction-Drive (FD) = A very simple and inexpensive drive system which pushes an electrically powered roller against the front or rear tire. Regenerative Braking = An energy recovery mechanism which slows the bike down by converting its kinetic energy into either a braking action  or by creating electrical  energy to put back into the batteries. Although this can save wear and tear on the brakes it is probably not cost effective as far as increasing your range. Often referred to as ReGen. Your money would be better spent on a bigger battery pack. Watch this video for more information on regen braking and why it is not a relevant for electric bicycles compared to electric cars.

Motor Efficiency = Most e-bike kits advertise this figure at 80 to 85%. It basically means that the given motor can convert up to 80 or 85% of the available energy into forward motion. This figure is dependent on many things and can be measured in different ways.  The overall efficiency of the e-bike is dependent on many things among them; the batteries, controller, wiring and wire connectors. So don’t hang your hat on this number. Amps = A measurement of current flow. Ah = One ampere-hour is equal to a current of one ampere flowing for one hour. For our use we are concerned with the ampere-hour capacity of our battery. That’s the number of ampere-hours which can be delivered by the battery on a single discharge. The higher the number the longer the run time, the bigger the battery and the more expensive it will be. 8, 10, 12, 15, and 20Ah will be the most common. Volts (v) = A measurement of the electric potential. The higher voltage the more power on tap & the more batteries you’ll need to carry. Watts = A derived unit of power or a measurement of power. I.e. 750 watts = one horsepower. Hub motors will typically be advertised as 250 to 1000 watts. To find the actual wattage your motor will be running at use the following formula. Volts x Amperes = Watts. Almost all of the motors being used in today’s e-bike kits are designed to work across a range of both volts and amps. Hence watts can be subjective number. Watt Hours = The energy capacity of a battery pack. To calculate multiply the voltage by the amp hours (Ah) of the battery pack. I.e. A 36-volt 10-Ah battery pack has 360 watt hours. Revolutions Per Minute (RPM) = The RPM’s given for a specific hub motor will be the maximum no load operating RPM. Higher RPM translate into more speed and less torque. Lower RPM is less speed and more torque. Conversely a small diameter rim will require a higher RPM motor to achieve the same travel speed as a larger diameter wheel. Horsepower (HP) =  1 Hp, between 735.5 to 750 Watts BLDC Motor = Brushless DC motor using an electronic motor controller.

COMPONENTS

MOTOR CONTROLLER (The Brains) DC Motor Controller = an electronic device that reads the throttle setting of your e-bike and adjust the current being supplied to the motor. Other functions usually include a low-voltage cutoff, a high temperature shut-off, over-current shut-off. Some controllers will also have a brake cutoff to shut down the motor when the brake is applied. Some may also have a regenerative braking option. This will often be indicated with regen being listed somewhere in specifications. Most of today’s controllers will work with hall sensor motors and the newer sensor-less motors. Most DC motor controllers are designed to operate across a range of motor and battery sizes. This gives the kit builder a fair amount of flexibility in selecting a cost effective controller for their kit. However when you combine this flexibility with the rather broad operating range of today’s hub motors you can see how easy it would be to “play with the numbers” Power Management Display (PMD) = An electronic dashboard for you e-bike measuring things like amps, watts, voltage, temperature etc. Wheel/Rim = (Where the rubber meets the road.)

All e-bike kits with the exception of a mid-drive motor include a hub motor laced to a front or rear rim. Most of today’s e-bike kits will also include the tire. Standard rim sizes are 18", 20", 24", 26" & 700cm. (28") A front wheel drive is by far the simplest to purchase & the easiest to install. They should not be used with aluminum forks or forks with shocks. Check your front forks with a magnet. If it sticks your good to go. If it doesn’t you’ll have to use a rear drive unit. Here aluminum is OK.  A rear wheel drive will come with a narrow gear sprocket in case your sprocket is too wide. You should look for double-walled rims with properly tension stainless steel spokes. Many cheap kits use a heavier zinc coated steel spoke. All front hub motors require some type of “Torque Arm”. These can be anything from a flat washer with a bendable tab to a true “torque arm” consisting 3 or 4 parts. Other useful information on rims and spokes can be found in Sheldon Brown’s article titled Wheel Building.

THROTTLE/BRAKES (Stop & go)

There’s not much to say here. You will usually have an option for a thumb throttle or a twist throttle such as you find on a motorcycle. A twist throttle gives you better control thereby increasing your run time. Most of today’s kits will accommodate the newer disc brake as well as the older V pull or center pull brakes. MAKE SURE YOUR BRAKES FIT YOUR E-BIKEKIT. Most e-bike kits will ship with brake levers to shut of power when the brakes are applied whether you want them or not. If you go with a “regen” option you will need an upgraded brake lever with a switch.

WIRE HARNESS (The Plumbing)

All e-bike kits will come with one. Many of the cheap kits will come with wire plugs and connectors in a plastic bag for you to install. These same kits often come with no instructions making the installation of these wire ends a very big challenge. One very nice feature that EBikeKit.com uses is a quick disconnect for the wiring that goes to the hub motor. I used to retro-fit my front hub motors with this option. It allows you to quickly unplug your front wheel to change a flat, put it on a roof top rack that requires removal of the front wheel or just to put your stock wheel & tire back on. Most e-bike kits will also have a quick disconnect for the battery pack. Between those two you can quickly take it apart to put into the back of your SUV, make it as light as original for lifting onto the bike rack or just to put it back to its original condition.

BATTERY (The Fuel Tank) Go to Battery University for detailed information on battery types.

Lead-Acid Battery = the type of battery in your car. This 100 yr. old technology is very toxic, very heavy & has a short life span. They are also very inexpensive and can be found just about anywhere. Go here for detailed information. SLA = Sealed lead acid battery. See above PbA  = Lead acid battery. See above   Li battery = Lithium battery. Go here for detailed information. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/lithium_based_batteries Li-Ion  = Lithium Ion battery. LiFePO4  = Lithium iron phosphate battery cells offering high power and energy density, excellent safety and life cycling. LiFePO4 is the safest and the most enviro-friendly chemistry make-up of lithium-ion batteries. Read “Electric Bike Lithium Battery Primer” for some very useful information on building LiFePO4 battery packs or here for detailed information on all lithium based batteries. See My Choice for Batteries for information on EZgo-Now’s new battery packs. NiH = Nickel hydrogen battery. Go here for detailed information. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/Nickel_based_batteries NiCd = Nickel cadmium battery. See above NiMH = Nickel metal hydride battery. See above BMS = A Battery Management System is required for the safe operation of any multi cell lithium battery pack. All BMS’s are not created equal. They affect both safety and performance so pay attention to what you’re getting. PCM = A Protection Circuit Module that is part of a BMS.

BATTERY CHARGER (The Gas Pump)

Battery chargers are specific to both voltage and battery type. Many e-bike kits will include a charger for SLA batteries even though the kit does not include any batteries at all. TIP!  PURCHASE YOUR CHARGER FROM YOUR BATTERY DEALER.

FREIGHT (you can’t get it from there to here without paying for this)

Freight can be a significant cost of your overall e-bike kit. Many of these kits and battery packs are coming from China. In addition to these regular freight charges you have additional charges for shipping batteries as they are classified as a hazardous material. (You probably wouldn’t want 50 lbs of poorly packaged lithium batteries sitting in the cargo hold of a plane you’re riding in)

Miscellaneous Terminology

EV = Electric vehicle. E-Bike = Stands for Electric Bicycle. Usually means that motor power is independent of pedaling and can be used as much or as little as the rider wants.

E-bike conversion kit = A complete conversion kit will contain everything required to turn an ordinary bicycle into an electrically assisted bicycle. Many of the low-end E-bike kits require the buyer to make-up and install wires, connectors and mounting brackets. You’ll have to buy or have on-hand zip ties, wire connectors and jumpers. Many do not come with a manual nor do they make any of the documents available on-line. Because of freight cost most conversion kits will make the battery an option or will not include it all. Finally a complete kit can take anywhere from 30 minutes to 1.5 hours. At the other extreme a bargain kit will take anywhere from 2 hours to the entire day and a trip or two to the hardware store. PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT’S INCLUDED. See Why Choose E-BikeKit for a listing of what E-BikeKit includes in their kits. Use this list when comparing other kits. Sadly Complete does not necessarily mean that you’ll have everything you need out of the box to ensure a smooth and aggravation-free electric bike conversion.

Making the decision to buy an electric bike conversion kit and deciding which e-bike conversion kit to buy is easy when you know what to look for.
The goal of this page is to provide you with useful information and insight so you can make an educated decision. When buying an ebike conversion kit, especially when buying online, it's important to make the right decision the first time or you risk losing money and wasting time. Too often at E-BikeKit we hear from people that have had bad product and poor customer service experiences buying low-quality kits from unscrupulous vendors. Here is what we think you need to know to ensure a successful and satisfying electric bike conversion process.

Making the decision to buy an electric bike conversion kit - Is conversion right for you? This is the very first decision you need to consider.

When you purchase an an electric bike conversion kit, like the E-BikeKit™, what you'll receive is a box with a wheel and parts that will need to go on your bike. This is something most people can do on their own, but having some degree of bicycle repair knowledge/experience is helpful. The process of converting your own bike using the E-BikeKit is really no more difficult than changing a flat tire; If you can change a flat tire, you can convert a bicycle to electric yourself with the E-BikeKit. If for any reason you are not comfortable with, or capable of converting your bike yourself, then you need to find someone who can do it for you. E-BikeKit has over 100 well-qualified Authorized Dealers in the USA that can convert your bike for you. You can search the Dealer Map with your zip code to find the dealer closest to you. If there isn't an E-BikeKit dealer close enough, we would suggest calling your local bike shop to ask if they can convert your bike or, as many people do, ask a handy neighbor or friend for assistance. If you have a question about the conversion process at any point you can always call us toll free at 1.866.882.3245. Sometimes a quick call an save you a lot of time and aggravation rather searching for the answer online.

Which e-bike conversion kit to buy - Just like buying a new bicycle you'll want to get the kit that suits your riding style and your budget. You'll also want to be sure you're buying from a reputable vendor with a reputation for selling quality products and providing support. When you're buying a conversion kit online you want to be absolutely certain that the vendor you buy from is available by phone and email. Availability is a key indicator of dependability and professionalism, and should be a main consideration in your purchasing decision. Avoid buying on price alone. You get what you pay for, and buying based solely on price will often cost you more in the long run. Do your research before buying to avoid paying for hassles and headaches.

Practical Considerations and Price - There are e-bike conversion kits that cost more than $1800 and there are e-bike conversion kits that cost less than $250; ultimately you get exactly what you pay for. Many factors contribute to the price of a kit but in general, where the kit is made and assembled, the level of support (pre and post sale), and the type of battery used (and how they are shipped to you) are the three main factors that determining price. Other factors that contribute to the price and ultimately affect the overall quality of the kit are the wheel building and the type of connectors used on the cables. Warranty and replacement parts are also important. A final consideration is what is actually included in the kit; is it a complete kit with everything you need "out of the box", or will you find yourself having to visit a hardware store as part of the install process. When considering who to buy from, and why one kit costs more or less than another, these are the questions you'll want to consider to ensure you're getting the best possible kit for your money.

1. Where the kit is made and assembled: The E-BikeKit™ brand conversion kit system is assembled in the USA with parts mostly imported from Asia. The wheels are hand-built in Pennsylvania USA by experienced wheel builders. E-BikeKit wheels are built with heavy-duty double-walled rims that are "eyeletted" (reinforced where the spoke enters the rim). The eyelets help protect the rim from cracking under the increased strain of the motor, especially when used by heavier riders (over 200lbs). The spokes used in the E-BikeKit wheels are stainless steel 12g spokes and they are "butted" to 13g at the threads. Brass-plated nipples are also used to prevent rusting.

2. Support - Pre and Post Sale - E-Bikekit has been offering high-quality electric bike conversion kits since 2008 and has a fully trained staff that is readily available to answer questions, take orders and handle any customer service needs. The staff is available by email and toll free phone almost 24 hrs a day. 1.866.882.3245.

3. Types of batteries - E-BikeKit uses premium 12v Rhino nonspillable SLA (Sealed Lead-Acid) cells and builds all SLA battery packs in it's Pennsylvania warehouse. LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate) packs offered by E-BikeKit are manjufactured in Asia and shipped from PA. All batteries are shipped in complete compliance with current United States DOT and Hazardous Materials shipping regulations.

4. The E-BikeKit conversion kit uses proprietary cables and connectors that are waterproof and locking. Each connector has only one mating connector so it is impossible to incorrectly connect the parts of the kit. Starting in 2013 connectors will also be color-coded for an even more user-friendly and intuitive installation process.

5. Geared hub motors are warranted for 1 year. Direct-drive hub motors are warranted for 2 years. All other kit accessories are warranted for 2 years. SLA battery packs are warranted 6 months. Replacement parts are readily available from E-BikeKit.

6. The E-BikeKit conversion kit includes everything that you will need to convert your bike including the small incidentals like zip ties and hex wrenches. This may seem trivial but these small extras can mean the difference between a fun electric bike kit conversion or an aggravating electric bike kit conversion.

Key considerations for choosing the right electric bike conversion kit for YOU - The best thing about conversion kits is they allow you to take an existing bike or a bike you want, that likely isn't sold in an electric version, and make it your own custom e-bike. The second best thing is that they can save you a lot of money versus buying a complete e-bike. Most complete electric bikes are nothing more than bikes with kits professionally installed (and partially hidden wires run through frames). By choosing a kit in most instances you can spend about 50% less and build a bike with the same electric performance and power.

When deciding on the right kit to suit your needs there are a few main considerations but the real question is what are you going to be using the bike for? Is your e-bike for getting to work without breaking a sweat? Is it for keeping up with your spouse? Is it to help getting over the hills? Maybe you want to leave the car at home and tote the kiddos to school on your cargo bike or use your electric tricycle to go grocery shopping. Each of these riding scenarios is different but the decision process for choosing the right kit for YOU is easy because in every scenario there are only three things to consider and those are outlined below. The final consideration is compatibility; most bikes and tricycles can be converted to electric using a conversion kit but some can't. Review the Work on MY Bike page to ensure the bike you want to convert is E-BikeKit compatible. If you are unsure after looking at that page, call us.

1. Is the total weight of the you and the bike over 200lbs? - In 90% of the riding scenarios, where the total weight is over 200lbs, you'll want to choose a kit with a direct-drive motor. The reason for choosing direct-drive, and not choosing a geared motor, is that direct-drive motors do not use nylon or composite material gears that will break or wear down under heavier loads. The 10% exception to the rule is in scenarios where the rider either accepts the increased wear and tear or understands it well enough to provide the appropriate input necessary to avoid damaging a geared motor. Basically you can use a geared motor for heavier applications BUT you must respect the limitations and pedal hard on the starts and when necessary to avoid harmful strain on the gearing. It should also be noted here that in scenarios where more weight will be relying more on the motor that a rear wheel conversion is preferable. Front forks and dropouts( where the axle enters the fork) are not intended to withstand stronger tensile pressure.

2. How far do you need to go with assistance from the battery on a single charge? - How far your ebike will take you with assistance from the motor depends on the size of your battery (measured in amp hours or "ah"), the efficiency of the motor used, and how much input you provide by pedaling. Typical e-bike batteries range from 7ah to 20ah. On average (considering a 170lbs rider, a moderate route of hills, and moderate pedaling input) a 7ah battery will have a range of 5-15 miles per charge. under the same average conditions a 20ah battery pack will have a range of 20-60 miles per charge. The chemistry of the battery pack (from sealed lead-acid through lithium-based) does not change the range expectations. Capacity = Range no matter the chemistry. Most people that require less than 20 miles per charge with moderate route and input will be fine with a 9-12ah sealed-lead acid battery or a lithium-based battery of the same capacity. There are differences in battery chemistry with regard to weight, performance and life-cycles (all rechargeable batteries have a limited lifespan), and ultimately you get what you pay for when choosing your battery type but how far you go depends on your battery size (ah), your motor type, and how much you pedal. If you need to go farther than 20 miles on a charge you should be looking at geared motors in combination with lithium-based batteries of 15ah or more. If you still have questions call us toll free at 1.866.882.3245 and we can help you find the best battery for your kit. We can offer suggestions for your needs and budget.

3. How much do you plan on pedaling? - How much you want to or plan on pedaling will determine what kind of motor you'll want, and how far you will be able to ride with power from the motor on a single charge. In any scenario, the more you pedal the less energy used from the battery and the farther you will be able to go with assistance from the battery. Geared motors are approximately 30% more efficient than direct-drive motors and will yield approximately 30% greater distances using the same battery energy compared to direct-drive motors. If you intend to pedal a moderate amount, than the option of motor and battery is open to your desire for speed, power, and range. The bigger the battery the farther you'll go and the bigger the motor the higher the top speed (and the more power) you will have available. For most people that plan on pedaling a lot, and keeping their bike more of a bike than electric scooter, a geared motor is the best decision. For those that need more assistance from the motor, are over 200lbs, or simply do not want to pedal as much, a direct-drive motor is a better decision.

Will the E-BikeKit™ Electric Bike Conversion Kits Work With Your Bicycle?

The E-BikeKit electric bike conversion kit is universal and can be used to convert most conventional bicycles. However, there are a few criteria which must be met first.

1. Your front forks or rear dropouts need to be wide enough to accept the an electric bike motor.Front forks MUST be at least 100mm at the dropouts (where the axle fits into the forks). Rear conversions require 135mm of space between the rear dropouts (this is standard for most bicycles).Front wheel conversions MUST use a Universal Torque Arm & C-Washer (when appropriate with certain alloy or quick release forks). Using the "C-Washers" and Universal Torque Arm ensures a safe to install of the front wheels on "non-steel" & quick release forks.Please Note: The rear and front motor axles are 12mm diameter and machined 10mm on the flats. Depending on the forks, a small amount of filing (typically just removing a small amount of paint) may be required to make the dropout slot wide enough to accept an electric bike motor.2. Must use conventional dropouts. Lately called "QR9" (for "quick release") and "Bolt-on" (for nutted axles) - if your drop-outs are open at the bottom, you're good to go. If your drop-out is closed at the bottom (see photo below), you can't put a motor in it. This is a "thru axle," and comes in 10mm, 12mm, 15mm, and 20mm varieties (so far):

3. You MUST use a Universal Torque Arm for certain hub motor conversions. Front conversion with motors above 250w and high-powered (500w or greater) motors require increased strength at the dropouts and a torque arm serves this purpose. A universal torque arm is included with every E-BikeKit conversion kit. Torque arms provide increased support at the axle and are used to prevent the axle from "spinning out" inside the dropouts.4. Pedal assist compatibility. Our pedal-assist magnet and sensor combination fits a wide variety of common bike parts, but will not fit all bikes. If the pedal-assist doesn't fit, you can still use the throttle. See this page for compatibility details: Pedal Assist Varieties.4. Disc Brakes: Every E-BikeKit hub motor is disc brake compatible and uses a standard ISO 6-bolt pattern to connect a standard disc brake rotor. Simply transfer your existing disc brake rotor to the E-BikeKit hub motor. (see note below)

Please Note: Compatibility of Disc Brake Calipers with the E-BikeKit Hub Motors - 18mm of Space.Not all disc brake calipers will fit between the motor side cover and the disc rotor. Your disc brake caliper head needs to be narrow enough to fit in this space. In certain situations you may be able to add a spacer to gain a few mm's or you could also possibly add individual screw washers with longer screws to accommodate a larger caliper head. Compatible mechanical disc brake calipers are available right here on EBikeKit.com.

E-BikeKit™ Electric Bicycle Battery Packs and Chargers.

Choosing an e-bike battery for your electric bike kit is one of the most important decisions you'll need to make. E-BikeKit offers Li-ion battery packs and sealed lead-acid battery packs (SLA) in either 36 volt or 48 volt configuations. Both chemistry offer advantages and disadvantages giving buyers a wide choice of budget and performance options. The Amp Hours (AH) of each of the packs is an indication of the expected range of the battery; the more AH, the farther you an ride on a a single charge.

The Li-ion batteries are the best performing, lightest weight and most expensive. The SLA batteries are the least expensive, with lesser performance and overall life. Choosing the right battery to meet your expectations is an imporatnt decision. Your budget, your speed and distance requirements and how you generally tend to use the battery are important to consider before making your decision. If you want help choosing the battery that's right for you please contact us by phone or email and a qualified representative can help you decide. Call toll free at 1-866-882-3245 Mon-Friday 9am-5pm EST. Or get help fast via email Click HERE.

Li-ion Battery Packs

A premium 3amp charger is included with every li-ion e-bike battery pack. All "blue" soft-pack (9 and 20ah) E-BikeKit battery packs come in a convenient and durable rear rack mount canvas battery bag. Aluminum case "black" batteries come with our 2-tier rack when purchased with a kit.

For normal use, you don’t really need to worry. Like with any Lithium Ion battery, the battery you have is very resilient and doesn’t need special treatment.

But, for maximum lifespan, we do recommend charging it when you get the chance. Draining it all the way down is bad for its health and will cause it to lose capacity earlier than if you top it off when you’re able to.

The charger shuts down charging when the battery is fully charged (fan shuts off and LED2 turns from red to green), so it can safely be left on the charger, but we don’t recommend leaving battery chargers unattended, so unplug it when it’s finished – unplug the charger from both the wall and the battery after each charge.

Electric Bicycle Battery - Rechargeable Sealed Lead Acid Battery Pack in Convenient Electric Bicycle Battery Bag

Every pack ships professionally soldered in a series and is completely "Plug & Ride" with Anderson Powerpole connectors.

Range: 12-34 Miles
Weight: 16 Pounds
Charging Time:4.5 Hours w/ 2Amp Charger
Cycle Life: 250+ (charge - discharge cycles before nominal capacity falls below 80%)

Features:

• Professional USA Assembly
• High-Quality Anderson Powerpole Connectors
• Convenient Carry Bag w/ Durable Handle
• Reflective Strip for Safety
• Extra Wide Velcro Straps for Securing to a Rear Rack

Making the decision to buy an electric bike conversion kit and deciding which e-bike conversion kit to buy is easy when you know what to look for.
The goal of this page is to provide you with useful information and insight so you can make an educated decision. When buying an ebike conversion kit, especially when buying online, it's important to make the right decision the first time or you risk losing money and wasting time. Too often at E-BikeKit we hear from people that have had bad product and poor customer service experiences buying low-quality kits from unscrupulous vendors. Here is what we think you need to know to ensure a successful and satisfying electric bike conversion process.

Making the decision to buy an electric bike conversion kit - Is conversion right for you? This is the very first decision you need to consider.

When you purchase an an electric bike conversion kit, like the E-BikeKit™, what you'll receive is a box with a wheel and parts that will need to go on your bike. This is something most people can do on their own, but having some degree of bicycle repair knowledge/experience is helpful. The process of converting your own bike using the E-BikeKit is really no more difficult than changing a flat tire; If you can change a flat tire, you can convert a bicycle to electric yourself with the E-BikeKit. If for any reason you are not comfortable with, or capable of converting your bike yourself, then you need to find someone who can do it for you. E-BikeKit has over 100 well-qualified Authorized Dealers in the USA that can convert your bike for you. You can search the Dealer Map with your zip code to find the dealer closest to you. If there isn't an E-BikeKit dealer close enough, we would suggest calling your local bike shop to ask if they can convert your bike or, as many people do, ask a handy neighbor or friend for assistance. If you have a question about the conversion process at any point you can always call us toll free at 1.866.882.3245. Sometimes a quick call an save you a lot of time and aggravation rather searching for the answer online.

Which e-bike conversion kit to buy - Just like buying a new bicycle you'll want to get the kit that suits your riding style and your budget. You'll also want to be sure you're buying from a reputable vendor with a reputation for selling quality products and providing support. When you're buying a conversion kit online you want to be absolutely certain that the vendor you buy from is available by phone and email. Availability is a key indicator of dependability and professionalism, and should be a main consideration in your purchasing decision. Avoid buying on price alone. You get what you pay for, and buying based solely on price will often cost you more in the long run. Do your research before buying to avoid paying for hassles and headaches.

Practical Considerations and Price - There are e-bike conversion kits that cost more than $1800 and there are e-bike conversion kits that cost less than $250; ultimately you get exactly what you pay for. Many factors contribute to the price of a kit but in general, where the kit is made and assembled, the level of support (pre and post sale), and the type of battery used (and how they are shipped to you) are the three main factors that determining price. Other factors that contribute to the price and ultimately affect the overall quality of the kit are the wheel building and the type of connectors used on the cables. Warranty and replacement parts are also important. A final consideration is what is actually included in the kit; is it a complete kit with everything you need "out of the box", or will you find yourself having to visit a hardware store as part of the install process. When considering who to buy from, and why one kit costs more or less than another, these are the questions you'll want to consider to ensure you're getting the best possible kit for your money.

1. Where the kit is made and assembled: The E-BikeKit™ brand conversion kit system is assembled in the USA with parts mostly imported from Asia. The wheels are hand-built in Pennsylvania USA by experienced wheel builders. E-BikeKit wheels are built with heavy-duty double-walled rims that are "eyeletted" (reinforced where the spoke enters the rim). The eyelets help protect the rim from cracking under the increased strain of the motor, especially when used by heavier riders (over 200lbs). The spokes used in the E-BikeKit wheels are stainless steel 12g spokes and they are "butted" to 13g at the threads. Brass-plated nipples are also used to prevent rusting.

2. Support - Pre and Post Sale - E-Bikekit has been offering high-quality electric bike conversion kits since 2008 and has a fully trained staff that is readily available to answer questions, take orders and handle any customer service needs. The staff is available by email and toll free phone almost 24 hrs a day. 1.866.882.3245.

3. Types of batteries - E-BikeKit uses premium 12v Rhino nonspillable SLA (Sealed Lead-Acid) cells and builds all SLA battery packs in it's Pennsylvania warehouse. LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate) packs offered by E-BikeKit are manjufactured in Asia and shipped from PA. All batteries are shipped in complete compliance with current United States DOT and Hazardous Materials shipping regulations.

4. The E-BikeKit conversion kit uses proprietary cables and connectors that are waterproof and locking. Each connector has only one mating connector so it is impossible to incorrectly connect the parts of the kit. Starting in 2013 connectors will also be color-coded for an even more user-friendly and intuitive installation process.

5. Geared hub motors are warranted for 1 year. Direct-drive hub motors are warranted for 2 years. All other kit accessories are warranted for 2 years. SLA battery packs are warranted 6 months. Replacement parts are readily available from E-BikeKit.

6. The E-BikeKit conversion kit includes everything that you will need to convert your bike including the small incidentals like zip ties and hex wrenches. This may seem trivial but these small extras can mean the difference between a fun electric bike kit conversion or an aggravating electric bike kit conversion.

Key considerations for choosing the right electric bike conversion kit for YOU - The best thing about conversion kits is they allow you to take an existing bike or a bike you want, that likely isn't sold in an electric version, and make it your own custom e-bike. The second best thing is that they can save you a lot of money versus buying a complete e-bike. Most complete electric bikes are nothing more than bikes with kits professionally installed (and partially hidden wires run through frames). By choosing a kit in most instances you can spend about 50% less and build a bike with the same electric performance and power.

When deciding on the right kit to suit your needs there are a few main considerations but the real question is what are you going to be using the bike for? Is your e-bike for getting to work without breaking a sweat? Is it for keeping up with your spouse? Is it to help getting over the hills? Maybe you want to leave the car at home and tote the kiddos to school on your cargo bike or use your electric tricycle to go grocery shopping. Each of these riding scenarios is different but the decision process for choosing the right kit for YOU is easy because in every scenario there are only three things to consider and those are outlined below. The final consideration is compatibility; most bikes and tricycles can be converted to electric using a conversion kit but some can't. Review the Work on MY Bike page to ensure the bike you want to convert is E-BikeKit compatible. If you are unsure after looking at that page, call us.

1. Is the total weight of the you and the bike over 200lbs? - In 90% of the riding scenarios, where the total weight is over 200lbs, you'll want to choose a kit with a direct-drive motor. The reason for choosing direct-drive, and not choosing a geared motor, is that direct-drive motors do not use nylon or composite material gears that will break or wear down under heavier loads. The 10% exception to the rule is in scenarios where the rider either accepts the increased wear and tear or understands it well enough to provide the appropriate input necessary to avoid damaging a geared motor. Basically you can use a geared motor for heavier applications BUT you must respect the limitations and pedal hard on the starts and when necessary to avoid harmful strain on the gearing. It should also be noted here that in scenarios where more weight will be relying more on the motor that a rear wheel conversion is preferable. Front forks and dropouts( where the axle enters the fork) are not intended to withstand stronger tensile pressure.

2. How far do you need to go with assistance from the battery on a single charge? - How far your ebike will take you with assistance from the motor depends on the size of your battery (measured in amp hours or "ah"), the efficiency of the motor used, and how much input you provide by pedaling. Typical e-bike batteries range from 7ah to 20ah. On average (considering a 170lbs rider, a moderate route of hills, and moderate pedaling input) a 7ah battery will have a range of 5-15 miles per charge. under the same average conditions a 20ah battery pack will have a range of 20-60 miles per charge. The chemistry of the battery pack (from sealed lead-acid through lithium-based) does not change the range expectations. Capacity = Range no matter the chemistry. Most people that require less than 20 miles per charge with moderate route and input will be fine with a 9-12ah sealed-lead acid battery or a lithium-based battery of the same capacity. There are differences in battery chemistry with regard to weight, performance and life-cycles (all rechargeable batteries have a limited lifespan), and ultimately you get what you pay for when choosing your battery type but how far you go depends on your battery size (ah), your motor type, and how much you pedal. If you need to go farther than 20 miles on a charge you should be looking at geared motors in combination with lithium-based batteries of 15ah or more. If you still have questions call us toll free at 1.866.882.3245 and we can help you find the best battery for your kit. We can offer suggestions for your needs and budget.

3. How much do you plan on pedaling? - How much you want to or plan on pedaling will determine what kind of motor you'll want, and how far you will be able to ride with power from the motor on a single charge. In any scenario, the more you pedal the less energy used from the battery and the farther you will be able to go with assistance from the battery. Geared motors are approximately 30% more efficient than direct-drive motors and will yield approximately 30% greater distances using the same battery energy compared to direct-drive motors. If you intend to pedal a moderate amount, than the option of motor and battery is open to your desire for speed, power, and range. The bigger the battery the farther you'll go and the bigger the motor the higher the top speed (and the more power) you will have available. For most people that plan on pedaling a lot, and keeping their bike more of a bike than electric scooter, a geared motor is the best decision. For those that need more assistance from the motor, are over 200lbs, or simply do not want to pedal as much, a direct-drive motor is a better decision.